2019

Penny planned us a route off beaten tracks as usual,  turning very soon off the N2 towards Coldstream, to go over a mountain pass (Bloukrans Pass). As we turned on to this road,  there was a sign saying the mountain pass was closed?? Could this possibly be? Only 5kms to Coldstream so we decided that we would try our luck and if we really had to, we would turn back…… Didn’t even see Coldstream….. And the road was definitely closed as two thirds of it had a huge, high mound of earth across it. Covered in grass,  so, pretty permanently closed! There was room to just squeeze by in our big beast. Mischievous Penny said to go for it…. I wasn’t convinced but being obedient as I am……...(obedient??) I drove very slowly not knowing if there was going to be a road around the bends! Not much traffic been through over the last few years as it was very overgrown and low hanging trees, eerie.

We persevered, a bicycle came towards us so Penny said we must be able to get through, not sure where the logic is there,  didn’t make me feel any easier…… We crossed over a couple of bridges,  glad they were still there! I asked,  do you think there will be a more severe blockade at the other end and we will have to go all the way back!  As we moved into the Western Cape from the Eastern Cape,  the road changed for the better. We reckon that they don’t want the upkeep of this road making people use the N2 toll road instead. (We actually drove this road in 2000 on our first trip to SA. But I’ve since discovered that it has been closed since heavy rains caused a lot of rock falls in 2007)

We stayed on the tar road driving through Natures Valley. Very aptly named,  the wild fynbos either side of the road looks as though it has been planted. This is also known as the garden route. We find a padstal, so stop for a light lunch,  that should keep us going until we arrive in Prince Albert. Another 200kms to go. We have to momentarily rejoin the N2, turning off again as we approach Plettenberg Bay. At least by turning off to do the mountain pass we avoided having to pay a toll on the N2, all of Rand53…….. (that’s all of £2.90 – actually quite expensive because it is only about 27Kms)

Completely overcast now and starting to rain, should make driving on dirt a load more fun… One minute the rain is heavy, then it eases off, then it looks as though it is clearing up! Another amazing drive.  Up and over mountains and sometimes on a track just wide enough for one vehicle.  Quite a lot of obstacles as there is an incredible amount of traffic, luckily, coming towards us.  It would not have been fun being stuck behind other cars with absolutely no possibility of overtaking!  However, they do tend to drive in the middle of the track, so have to be careful on bends…… My friend did get a little upset with me when I didn’t stop at a cafe cum antique shop in the middle of nowhere. I didn’t want to chance the possibility of a car going our direction and getting in front of us….. Anyway, I know there is a gin bar waiting for us at the Swartberg Hotel in Prince Albert, no need to stop again for another coffee!! She is well miffed now and insists on having a coffee before we get there,  I say not to hurt herself when she opens the door to get out……….LOL! (I also need a wee, urgently – but that doesn’t seem to matter to our driver who now has gin on the brain)

Eventually,  we get back on to tar for a while.  I see a sign for a deli/ coffee bar.  I turn off following the signs, ending up in somebody’s back garden.  There was a sign on the gate saying ‘open’ but no other sign. Wrong place or maybe it was the right place but they are no longer open. Penny had a long chat whilst I sat waiting in the car. How long can it take to ask if they serve coffee?  This is Penny I am talking about………  (It is a bit embarrassing when you walk straight in to someone’s front room – OK, I knocked first, then walked in without waiting for an answer. The cafe, or whatever it was, is no longer open to the public and they were preparing their family meal. They said they were sorry, but couldn’t give us any coffee. The kind lady also told me that the Swartberg Pass, that we were about to drive to Prince Albert, is closed. And has been closed for nearly a year! After our earlier experience with a closed pass, I decided not to impart this information to the driver – the alternative was 100s of Kms and unthinkable. Don’t forget, madame has gin on the brain. And that is why it took me so long!!) P should have told them that their signs are still up, on the main road and by the church, and even the open sign on the gate! Mind you,  it was a long driveway to have to walk down to remove it!

Back on the road, we turn in to a place on the roadside, try our luck here. A strange place,  but we got a coffee. Made it a quick stop as I have an important date……. with a gin

We soon turned off for the last leg of our journey,  a narrow dirt track over the Swartberg Pass. Incredible scenery, mountain range after mountain range, at least six layers, fading to a pale grey in the distance. This pass was built in the late 1800’s, well before there were any cars on the road. I am pleased to say that the sun is out again and the temperature has risen to 21°. It has gone down as low as 13°……… Another pleasing thing  was that there was hardly any other traffic, one car going the other way on our way up.  And one car,  also going the other way, towing a caravan.  There are signs clearly saying no towing of caravans allowed on the pass. Must have been Penny N°2!! Ah, there was one other car on the way down, ahead of us.  He must have seen us coming as he promptly pulled over to let us by…….. much appreciated,  I do like having the roads just for us!

A quick check in,  getting late for my date….BUT, a lovely room but not like we had last year. We have a suite booked and this room is small.  We have also paid for a suite.  The hotel is heaving. Not like last year when it was just us and the Swedish brothers! Penny has a little word with reception. Apparently,  there are no suites and all rooms are the same rate.  However,  tomorrow they will move us to the larger room with two armchairs and fireplace.  Another snag,  as the hotel is full, so is the restaurant.  Reception booked a table for us at the cafe adjoining the dining room and the same food is served, phew! At long last,  in to the gin bar for a??? By the time we came out of the bar, we managed to get a table in the main restaurant. Funny how we always get what we want in the end!

Between the dining room and our room, we just happen to have to walk by the Ladies Bar. Would be churlish to not stop off on the way home! A night cap or two and off to bed. Don’t worry Mum, it may sound like we are drinking a lot but we aren’t really (not yet).  Oh,  forgot to mention the nice bottle of red wine we had at supper too………

16th December

Up by 7am. Plan today is to mooch around town, see how much of our hard earned cash we can leave behind in Prince Albert… Also,  we will visit the museum to see the letter Queen Victoria wrote to the town.  My friend assures me it will be open even though it is Monday, she says it is only Spain where museums close on Monday.  After a nice breakfast on the front terrace in the sunshine, with a beautiful blue sky,  right on the main road but hardly any traffic, we headed off to do a bit of retail therapy. We asked the hotel for a map, they said we could get one from the tourist office,  nextdoor to the museum. We stop off at a gallery. Pop in to a cafe cum antique shop. Turns out to be a guest house and they don’t serve coffee.  However,  they will serve us lemon ice cream on their garden terrace?? We decline their kind offer and make for the tourist office to get a map.  We seemed to remember there being a lot more shops? Penny asked the lady if the museum was open, she popped her head outside the door and said it is closed today.  Monday? No, it is a national holiday in South Africa, the 16th December,  Same every year. How can it be that the only day we are in a town, everything is closed. Penny obviously didn’t have her tour operator hat on when she planned this – or maybe she did.  Just like when she booked the Sheraton at Heathrow airport for us, Karen, Ross, Malcolm and Jackie.  Malcolm and Jackie ended up in a different Sheraton to us…….All laughs!

A b_ _ _ _ y good job the spa was open at the hotel on a national holiday! Three hour treatment each booked for the afternoon.  Something to look forward to…….. (If all the shops had been open there wouldn’t have been time for the spa treatments! all very well planned ?…)

And what a good treatment it was albeit we didn’t get the full three hours – no worries,  the gin bar will be open…….

Supper at the hotel again,  that was after paying a visit to the gin bar….And after supper, a night cap, or several in the Ladies bar.  Two young men in there so we got chatting to them. They were fascinated by our travels around their country and the fact we go on the back tracks, and stay in places they have never heard of…… Quite nice chatting with locals,  well not that local, they were from Pretoria…. Bad news when they invited us to Jagermeister shots,  we had to reciprocate…. One bailed out. I was the next one.  My friend,  as usual,  stayed to the bitter end with her new best buddy and drinking partner,  Vessels. I bet he got a telling off from his wife when he went back to their room at 2.30am…….

17th December

My friend is a little under the weather today, I wonder why!! (that is an outright lie. I was very seriously hungover!  I survived the journey with the aid of paracetamol, ibuprofen and seasick tablets – the latter worked a treat as also kept me awake – some of the time!) Some people never learn do they! Good job I am the driver as we have just under 400kms to go today,  back to the coast. Our next destination is Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa and where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean.

Before we leave Prince Albert we stop off at the museum. I got it wrong about the letter from Queen Victoria, it is actually a book of Prince Albert’s speeches that she dedicated and gave to the town.  It was quite an interesting museum and we really needed more time, shame it was closed yesterday!   For some reason or other,  we were rather late getting away today…… (must have been the museum visit)

Went back over the Swartberg Pass, was a little busier today but luckily the traffic was all going the other way. We turned on to a tar road that soon changed to dirt, travelling through mountains most of the time. Another scenic route. Just before Calitzdorp, we joined the iconic Route 62, so back on tar for the remainder of the journey. We passed a mountain that was smoking and drove through a huge sandstorm,  as bad as very thick fog…..

We stopped at Ronnie’s Sex Shop. A famous bar on the Route 62. It has been going for twenty two years. We last stopped here in 2011 and bought an apron.  This time we bought T-shirts…. I had a beer and my friend,  who was struggling to keep her eyes open, had a soft drink, sweet!! (Rock shandy – for the angostura bitters’ medicinal benefits)

Shortly afterwards we arrived at Barrydale, intending to stop at Clarkes of the Karoo for a bite to eat.  Gosh, this town has grown and either Clarkes is no more or it was hiding amongst all the other places that have sprung up, so, no lunch!

Here we turned off the Route 62 towards Swellendam, going through a pass.  Somebody going the other way flashed us. Could it be they were warning us that there are police ahead?  Best slow down as the speed limit through the pass is 70kmph! A police car came towards us with his lights flashing.  Just when we thought we were in the clear, we saw a big lorry stationary on the road ahead and another police car with flashing lights. It looked as though the lorry had lost his load of hay as there were a lot of people sweeping up….. Unfortunately,  the police car drove on ahead of us, so we had to keep to the limit! Even worse, we soon caught up with another lorry with a precarious load.  A few bales of hay and a load of bags full of hay, god knows how they were staying on the lorry.  It was moving along at under 30kmph….. The police car riding on his tail and making no attempt to overtake,  still with his lights flashing! I was about to pass them both when the police pulled out and overtook.  Good job I didn’t try.  At least we could go back up to the speed limit…..

A quick stop in Swellendam to top up the phone again and to buy some water. Three days self catering again but we will manage on our supplies now……. We called the San Parks reception as we were not going to make it by 6pm. Seemed to be a bit of an issue as they didn’t think we would find the cottage!  Penny informed them that we are quite intelligent people so we wouldn’t have a problem – not sure where she got that from!!  Anyway, she came to some arrangement of where the keys and directions would be.

We arrived just after 6.30pm, after driving around 90kms towards the coast with severe cross winds, buffeting us all over the place. This beast is quite heavy and when you add mine and Penny’s weight,  plus the huge amount of luggage, say no more!! There was still somebody at reception (who’s remark when she saw me was OH!),  so all happy bunnies….. Cape Agulhas is quite a busy little place. Maybe we should be staying in town. A few bars and eateries around…..

We follow the directions, very easy….. (as I told the lady, we are intelligent people) About 31kms away,  way out in the middle of nowhere.  There are three cottages,  but we are the only people staying here.  A very quaint,  thatched roof cottage with one door and five small windows. The lounge cum kitchen is furnished with a wooden table and two upright, wooden dining chairs, these soon became bedside tables.  There is one small wooden armchair with a cushion on it,  I can see there being a fight later on! We have a gas fridge and gas hob and an indoor braai.  There is a plastic table and two plastic chairs for outdoors. Not sure when these would be of use as it has been blowing a gale for the last few hours. Funny thing is, normally, all outside furniture at San Parks accommodation, weighs a ton,  yet here we have standard,  light weight,  white plastic……. The bedroom consists of two single beds and an empty wooden trunk. The shower room is fine.  On a whole, quite cute but very basic.  We have three nights……. Ummm…….

18th December

Woke up at 06.40am. My friend didn’t want to get up just yet….. Around 20° so will be fine to walk later.  Looks like we had a bit of rain in the night.  Fairly overcast and extremely windy still….. We drive out of our little gated area,  avoiding the tortoise walking up the lane towards us.  We drove about 5kms down the dirt road to the end of the track where there is a pristine,  white beach.  A very rocky area and a very rough sea. Very scenic. We thought we had the place to ourselves and a Landrover pulled up nearby with two guys in it. One strolled across barefoot and started chatting about the area.  How it is now and how it used to be when he was growing up here.  He said to have a great walk and that we shouldn’t see anybody apart from maybe abalone poachers…….

We followed a narrow trail (most of the time!). Sometimes on rocks and pebbles, as we hugged the coastline. Sometimes walking through fynbos. The different colours of the rocks and of the flora were so beautiful. Will be surprised if any photos turn out as it was impossible to hold the camera still due to the gale……. After 4kms we doubled back.

The wind does not ease up at all…… Back to our ‘comfortable’ little cottage for the remainder of the day. Tomorrow we will drive into Cape Agulhas and choose a different walk……

Interesting supper this evening, lamb chops (cooked to perfection) and black skinned sweet potatoes (they became this colour when cooked on the braai!, probably burnt but don’t tell my friend I said that……inside they were perfect, you don’t have to eat the skin), baked beans (one of our 5 a day) and mint jelly. (would you have lamb chops without mint jelly?) As I said before,  we are eating up what we have in stock…….. With a bit of luck,  we will stumble across a fantastic fish restaurant,  serving fresh lobster,  when we are down in Agulhas tomorrow…… The alternative could be dry crackers!

Sitting in my comfortable white plastic chair, reading.  Occasionally glancing out of the window,  I see seven blue helmeted guinea fowl with eight little chicks.  Another time, I look out to see a hare grazing on the grass. I just love this – we are so lucky. (photographic proof would have been nice. I didn’t see any of that, was too busy burning the sweet potato)

19th December

Seem to be getting prepared for back home, we are gradually getting up later and later!  Not such a problem as it is not too hot here to start walking later…(and it is too cold to get up very early). Drove  down to Agulhas,  continuing on through the park to the rest camp,  where the 10.5 km trail begins. Only we couldn’t find it and what is more the gate to the camp is closed and we don’t have a token to get in! Turn back,  scratch our heads, look at the map that is wrong as far as I am concerned…. Driving back, we see a trail crossing the road, certainly doesn’t tally with the map….Continue a little further and find another shorter trail and somewhere to park. Walked along the coast on sand dunes, beaches, and pebbles. A fairly short walk,  just under 5 kms. Again it was in very gusty wind. At least the wind is warm….. and found some amazing shells

On our return, we stopped off at the plaque showing the southernmost tip of Africa and where the oceans meet, a good photo stop…..

We then went to the lighthouse to climb the 71 steps to the top. What we didn’t realise is that the steps are ladders…….We both climbed up,  I opened the door to go out at the top, walked out,  and promptly walked straight back in…..My brave (very brave)  friend went out,  walked all the way around AND climbed more steps outside to go even higher. The wind was more like a hurricane….. Hope she got some good pics! Very, very brave. It was really, really windy! But there were plenty of handles to hold on to, and a thin steel railing all the way round to stop you falling off. And sadly no photos – lots of video that I am still trying to learn how to embed here!

We then went in search of a nice fish restaurant.  First we found the Crazy Pig so stopped off for a drink….. We then ended up at a bar restaurant, not quite what we had in mind (don’t think that exists in this neck of the woods!), but the food was ok.  A bit of sashimi, the Salmon was excellent.  Sushi,  followed by fish and chips….. But, Yellowtail, delicious…. All washed down with a Dom Pedro, what else!

Off in search of a pub with Wi-Fi, we have no phone signal or internet at our little cottage. We had to suffer more drinks just so as we could get the next chapter off to you guys…….. (that would be the previous chapter) We are not supposed to be driving around after dark and certainly not in the park later than 7pm!! Nearly 10pm when we got home!

20th December

Managed to get away by 10.30am, pretty good going for us two…… Again my friend found an interesting route,  zigzagging our way across country on dirt roads mainly.  A strange haze today,  unusual for here. Could barely see in the distance. We stopped off at a little town called Elin and found the pastor to see if we could leave some clothes for the needy.  No rude comments please,  especially from you Ross, who would probably say ‘maybe the needy could give you their clothes’!! Quite an interesting little town. (and the Pastor was very pleased to receive our gift)

Driving mainly through farms.  My friend on gate duty.  We did wonder, for a split second,  whether or not to go through the gate with a huge sign saying private property,  no sheep for sale,  trespassers will be prosecuted. Not a problem, there were also cows there, so we could have asked if the cows were for sale!

Decided to stop off for light refreshments in Napier. Nice little place with a terrace overlooking the busy road…. Best chicken salad so far……

We drove up and down the main road in Riviersonderend looking for our mate Maureen but she hasn’t arrived there yet. She’s still in Gordons Bay.

We found out the cause of the haze, a huge fire in the mountains, apparently in McGregor, a small town where we once stayed a few years back. We had thought of staying there this trip but I suggested Montagu for somewhere different where we haven’t been before, good job!

We soon arrived in Montagu, back on the Route 62. A quirky little town, typical of the Western Cape. Loads of pretty looking guest houses and eateries.  You feel like you want to try them all……. This place has worked out well for us as there is a Saturday market, so we can head for that in the morning and then mooch around the shops….

Packing commences tomorrow, so before checking in to our accommodation for the next two nights, we go to Tops at Spar, the alcoholic section of the supermarket, housed in a different building… Here we stock up with South African wine, a bit like taking coal to Newcastle!! We then go into the main supermarket and order our beef fillets, to pick up on Sunday. A very obliging lady in charge of the meat division took away the only 3 fillets left and said she would have them for us on Sunday – I wonder…….

Off to our lodgings, three kilometres out of town,  Galenia Estate. A beautiful place, immaculate.  It is an olive farm where they make several varieties of oil, we are going olive tasting before we leave…… They have several marked walking trails within the estate, tomorrow morning perhaps?

We are greeted and offered a drink, we choose a glass of white wine, most civilised…. We are here on B&B basis but they serve evening meals as an extra, we opt to stay in. We ask for a late check out on Sunday, Crisma was amused when she asked us how much later and I said ‘two years’!

Supper did not disappoint, five courses a la Cleopatra….. Very nice wine we chose too. Can’t wait for breakfast……..

The intention was to get up and out at 7.30am, walk a couple of hours on the trails, breakfast at 09.30 and then down to town. Reality was quite different….. Woke at 7.20am, turned over, next waking at 09.21am. Quick dash to make breakfast deadline at 10.00am! Dining table, bed, dining table, with no walking in between – not good…..

Eventually getting down to Montagu by 11.30am. A speedy look around the little craft market as we soon find out they pack up at 12.00! Half an hour, plenty of time to shed a few Rand.

As I am writing this, sitting on our terrace, three (four?) ostriches appear and start pecking the grass in front of me! Big birds to have in your garden!  We are used to the likes of sparrows and blackbirds……

Out of the market and into a shop where we successfully shed even more Rand. We ask the lady in the shop until what time do the shops stay open, 1pm!!! Blown that again haven’t we?! Thought it was looking quiet in town…… Cafes stay open so we can at least grab a drink! We whatsapp Maureen to see if we can arrange to meet up tomorrow before we head off to the airport. We will see what we can arrange. Got a whole load of packing to do between now and then. The car is empty, the immaculate room that we arrived to is indescribable! Full of extremely dusty bags and contents.  The bakkie is not at all airtight, the downside of taking dirt tracks…….

Off to taste olives/ oil now – more coal to Newcastle……..

Excellent supper again although I feel as though I am about to explode……

22nd December

No idea what time Penny got to bed (about 2am, and still not finished), I left her packing.  Offered to help but she likes to do it……..

Had to be up by 7am, still a lot to sort out and we have arranged to meet up with Maureen in Gordons Bay at 12.15 to 12.30. It is a good two hours drive,  so if we get away by 10am, we should be good.

The packing continues……. Take a break for breakfast before it finishes at 10am.  The packing continues…… To make things easier,  we call BA to see how much an extra suitcase would cost.  Gave all of the necessary details and were quoted £78.??p. We could have taken the excess in hand luggage but wouldn’t have been quite so comfortable for us.  We could also have probably left some unessentials behind…. After thinking this over for a few seconds,  we decide we will pay the £78+

Packing done  and on the road just after 12.00. Hmmm, better whatsapp Maureen, even I can’t drive almost 200kms in half an hour! All sorted,  we will now meet at the restaurant where she has booked a table for 2pm. First we have to stop quickly at Spar to pick up the meat we have ordered….. (and yes, it was there waiting for us)

Just down the road, out of Montagu, are roadworks. Waiting time can be up to twenty minutes. We join the queue. We waited no longer than ten minutes,  relief! Traffic a bit congested due to the road works but luckily, a few kilometres down the road it eased up. We managed to avoid the real main roads but sticking to tar all the way.  Didn’t want the luggage to get dusty as we would get filthy unloading the car…..

Got to the restaurant in pretty good time,  arriving at 2.07pm. Probably more punctual than when we have a five minute drive to get somewhere at home!!

Met up with Maureen and her friends at a fantastic restaurant and had an amazing lunch.  Maureen chose very well, she knows us well….. It was a great end to our holiday filling our departure day,  other than kicking dust and killing time at the airport. We said our farewells and got to the airport in good time.  (Thank you Maureen, really good to see you, and as C says, a lovely end to our holiday. Can you be somewhere near Joburg on 22nd December this year please?!!)

Said goodbye to the beast and checked in our excessive amount of luggage.

 One snag,  we were charged in excess of £150 for the extra case.  We are now sitting in the lounge discussing this with a BA official hoping to get the matter resolved….. Watch this space!!!

Yet another fantastic holiday – Penny has just finished with the BA official and what a lovely lady she is. She is going to cancel the charge meaning we have paid £0 for our extra case………  (Yup, I spoke very nicely to the duty manager and we got the extra bag for free. BA came up trumps once again!)

Not sure how you guys are going to fill your days now as this is the last chapter until next time……. I hope it wasn’t too boring.  Aren’t you glad we don’t holiday at all inclusive beach resorts…………